Nepal and Tibet

Travel time: June 2002  |  by Denise Sullivan

Last Days in Lhasa: One last time for Bakhor Square

We still want to buy prayer flags so a group of us set out one last time for Bakhor Square where we buy strings of prayer flags to erect across the mountain passes as, apparently, is the thing to do. We also want to take some home. Our son, Blair mentioned that he would like some to string up under his high-set house. Another couple in our group want to buy one of the long Tibetan trumpets, which we have seen in the temples. They are used by the monks, in the temples, as part of their ceremonies. Our guide is with us all and decides to help them bargain for the instrument. Another of our guides joins in and decides he wants one too so this increases the bargaining power. Our guide shouts louder and louder, in her enthusiasm, as she is wont to do, and soon a crowd has gathered. This is not allowed in Bakhor Square, because the square has been the scene of uprisings in the past and the Chinese do not take too happily to a "gathering". Before long, a Chinese security guard appears beside us to investigate the fuss. He pretty much tells us to keep the noise down, so very soon, the deal is closed with the purchase of two beautiful Tibetan horns.

We decide there and then, we want one too. Until now, it hasn't crossed our minds but suddenly we can picture one of these very handsome musical instruments, displayed in our music room. There are no more to be had at this particular stall but wandering on a little way, we find them for sale at another. Our bargaining is much quieter and civilized and we eventually make a purchase too. The horn is crafted of copper and brass and has beautiful markings. It can be extended like a telescope, and when it is, it reaches about two metres long. Collapsed, it is short enough for us to fit into our bags so it won't be too much of a nuisance for the rest of the journey. We have had great fun and so to celebrate we go to a rooftop café, overlooking the kora, for a drink. There we can people watch, which is very exciting. We see more of our group so we coo-ee, a great way to gain the attention of an Australian in a crowd, and they join us. We soon have quite a crowd of us there to celebrate this, our last evening in Lhasa. Our group has melded well and we are enjoying each other's company.

On our return to the hotel, we buy bananas for our journey but we no longer have them in our hand than some small, dirty children come begging for them. We hand over two, which makes them happy. I suppose they need them more than we do. We parted with our Coke yesterday the same way. On the first day I gave one little fellow a tiny toy koala, which I had in my camera bag. We were amused when he ran off joyfully calling out to his mother, "Kangaroo! Kangaroo!" The street of beggars between our hotel and Bakhor Square will go down in our memory as one of the liveliest street we have ever visited.

We will never forget the faces of two old ladies, begging from the step of a closed shop. They are so dirty, I do not think they had ever had a bath in their whole lives but they have a twinkle in their eyes and they win us over. Not long after we have given them some money, they leave their spot, and two old men take their place, perhaps their husbands on the evening shift. I think that one of the aspects of travel that I enjoy the most is watching the people and their way of life. And the Tibetan people certainly have a character all of their own.

Beggars in Lhasa

Beggars in Lhasa

© Denise Sullivan, 2005
You are here : Overview Asia Tibet One last time for Bakhor Square
The trip
 
Description:
A really nice trip through countrysides of Nepal and Tibet.
Details:
Start of journey: Jun 01, 2002
Duration: 15 days
End of journey: Jun 15, 2002
Travelled countries: Nepal
Tibet
The Author
 
Denise Sullivan is an active author on break-fresh-ground. since 19 years.